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Szechuan Mountain House offers popular Sichuan favorites like mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, and kung pao shrimp, as well as classic Sichuan dishes seldom seen on menus in the U.S. Diners will be surprised by the Yibin-style ran noodles, also known as burning noodles, which are chewy, dry noodles that are flavorful, spicy, and salty from cardamine bean sprouts and roasted nut powder. The name “burning noodles” comes from the fact that traditional cooking methods add lard and chile oil to the noodles, which can be ignited without the use of water. Some other classics include Sichuan dishes like mao xue wang, a stew of ox tripe, duck blood, beef tongue, chicken gizzard and other offal simmered in a peppercorn and chile-laced broth. The crispy free-range laziji chicken is stir-fried with dried chiles, dried Sichuan chile peppers, spicy bean paste, garlic, ginger, and topped with toasted sesame seeds and sliced spring onions.
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The Mountain House in Woodside will get a second wind later this month when a Michelin-starred chef reopens the longtime establishment, the San Francisco Standard reports. Chef Dmitry Elperin of the Village Pub and his business partner, chef William Roberts, are set to open the doors for dinner service with a menu of “coastal countryside cuisine” on Thursday, February 23. Previous Mountain House owner Jerry Olson retired and permanently shuttered the restaurant in April 2022.
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It is not out of the ordinary to use more than 20 different kinds of spices for a particular dish. “We are also dedicated to using free-range chicken and other seasonal ingredients and vegetables,” says Zhu. Zhi Min Zhu, who hails from Sichuan, is the culinary director of all the Szechuan Mountain House locations and is in charge of training all of the kitchen teams.
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Liang yi, which translates to “hanging clothes” in Mandarin, is intended to evoke the image of laundry hung to dry on a clothesline. Together with a slice of cucumber, the thin pork belly is dipped in chile oil with a wad of minced garlic. The translucently thin slices of pork and cucumber are presented draped over a miniature wooden rack above a minced garlic and chile oil dipping sauce.
The space sports similar designs to the NYC locations, with koi ponds, cascading waterfalls, bamboo groves, Chinese flower art, calligraphy, lanterns, and ceramics. While the previous owner's crew specialised in local seafood and wild game, current management under Elperin and William is starting anew with a different concept. “I really wanted to stay true to our menu and not make any compromises just to please what we thought the local crowd would find acceptable. For us, this is what a modern-day Sichuan restaurant would actually look like in Sichuan,” says Zhu. Zhu says that they take great care in the selection of peppercorns, all of which are grown in Sichuan.
Szechuan Mountain House boasts a large fan base in New York, and its locations in Manhattan and Flushing frequently make the New York Times’s 100 Best Restaurants list and Eater NY’s list of 38 Essential Restaurants. It’s not uncommon for lines to regularly span wait times of an hour and a half or more. Telefèric Barcelona has served the Bay Area paellas and tapas for a number of years, and now the restaurant group is expanding down south with a new location in Brentwood. Eater Los Angeles has the details on the new restaurant, which will also house El Merkat, a takeaway market with premade food, wine, and specialty Spanish food items. Kaity and Roberto Galvez of LJ’s Deli in Terra Linda took over and recently reopened after giving the spot a refresh — but a number of customer favorite sandwiches remain on the menu.
Cuisine and menu
Other hard-to-find Sichuan dishes on the menu include Qian Jiang-style chicken giblets with pickled pepper and mala chicken stew. Szechuan Mountain House also features offal like pig intestine, tripe, beef tongue, kidney, chicken giblets, curdled blood, and fish maw. There is also a wide variety of vegetables, as well as the popular golden baked salted corn kernels with salted egg yolk, which tastes like creamy, buttery, elevated popcorn, and an expansive vegetarian menu. The signature dish at Szechuan Mountain House is liang yi pork belly, Zhu’s modernized take on a traditional Chinese dish.
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Initially established over a century ago hosting a variety of community roles, it has been featured in a plethora of music video clips by prominent artists mostly due to its unique location inside a redwood forest. The Mountain House has been a cherished community gathering place with origins dating back to the early 1900s when it served as a water pump station for the homesteads scattered across King’s Mountain. Over the years, it transformed into a public house, then into a restaurant and bar, always radiating a welcoming ambiance and hospitality. “Many people in the U.S. believe that Sichuan food equals red hot chiles and peppercorn. They think that they should be sweating and crying for help to extinguish the burn, but we want to show people that Sichuan food is more than that,” says Zhu.
Music and filmography
Zhu has been working with Szechuan Mountain House since 2015 at the New York East Village location and has helped train the team at the new Rowland Heights location. At Comstock Saloon, burlesque dancer Frankie Fictitious will perform with the Hal Bigler Band, with French 75s and Ramos Fizzes served at the bar, and crawfish and gumbo available from the kitchen.
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